Showing posts with label gilding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gilding. Show all posts
Sunday
Making a gilded frame - laying the gold leaf
The frame can now be water gilded, the bole is wetted with a weak mixture of glue, water and IPA alcohol, the gold leaf is then picked up from a gilder's cushion using a brush called a tip and brought into contact with the wetted area, the gold is pulled of the tip by the water. As the water dries the leaf can be pressed firmly into contact with the bole. This sample frame has been gilded with palladium on the sight edge, 23.5ct gold leaf on the scoop, and 18ct green gold on the outer section. Once the initial gilding has taken place any breaks or overlaps between the different types of leaf are filled in, this can be seen in the last photo. The outer section was also burnished lightly with an agate stone burnisher.
Labels:
gilding,
water gilded
Friday
A simple gilded frame
This frame is water gilded on yellow bole. There is no burnishing as it is intended to be a simple, matt finish. The look is quite understated, but I think it still stands out as being hand made, when compared to the endless factory finished gold frames available.
Labels:
gilding,
water gilded
Making a gilded frame - Mixing up the gesso
The next stage in making our gilded frame is to mix up and apply the gesso. As with the size coat, rabbit skin glue is mixed with water, this time the ratio is 1:10 (1 part glue to 10 parts water). The glue/water is left to soak for 24 hours and is then heated gently in a double boiler. Once it is all melted and warmed the glue is taken off the heat and whiting (calcium carbonate) that has been sieved is added to the glue. I use a spoon to carefully add the whiting to the glue. Usually I use a large metal saucepan, but using a large coffee jar illustrates how the whiting drops to the bottom and absorbs the glue, whiting is added until there is just a small amount of glue left on the surface, basically until no more whiting can be absorbed. Gypsum (calcium sulphate) and some other less common chalks can be used instead of whiting. In times past whiting was mainly used in Northern Europe, while gypsum was favoured in Italy and the south.
This glue and whiting is left for a while before being given a good stir, a few good taps on the jar or container can help eliminate some air bubbles. Some people would now sieve or filter the gesso to remove any last lumps, and sometimes people add other ingredients such as linseed oil, tallow, and alcohol. I have also heard of garlic, salt, and other additives being used, which alter the properties of the gesso.
The rabbit skin glue we use nowadays is a slightly different, modern version of the traditional hide glues used centuries ago, parchment clippings can also be used and is probably a more traditional ingredient, just not that convenient to use. Some relatively new and valid types of gessos are made from PVA adhesive or conservation adhesives such as Paraloid B72. I think the study of gesso is actually quite complex, and I only wish I had time to experiment more with different recipes and types.
So once the gesso is mixed it can be brushed onto the frame, the next coat is applied when the surface has dried and is no longer glossy, apply the next coat to soon and you can get nasty cracks, although you should not wait until the surface is 'white' dry. Timing is key.
The number of coats depends on the quality and type of finish your aiming for, but we usually apply 6 to 8 coats. The gesso can be brushed on or sprayed, if I am spraying I always brush on the first one or two coats and then spray on the final coats, I find the finish is just better doing it this way.
We aim to complete gessoing a frame in a day, doing half one day and the rest the next is never good, as the time between applying each layer is important to building a strong bond between each coat. Another thing to remember is not to overheat the gesso, to much heat breaks the glue down and putting warm gesso on a layer that is cold and dry will result in lots of air bubbles in the finished surface. Once the gessoing is finished the frame is left to dry for at least 12 hours before the next stage, which is the sanding.
Making a gilded frame - size coat
The first stage in making a gilded frame (after it has been joined, had the corners filled, and the whole frame has been sanded), is to apply a size coat of rabbit skin glue. This primes the barewood surface and will help to create a strong bond between the gesso layers and the wood substrate. If the frame is not given a size coat the glue in the gesso is absorbed into the wood and the bond will be very weak. The glue granules are mixed 1:8 with water and left for 24 hours to soak. The glue is then heated in a double boiler and brushed on very warm, but is not heated too much as overheating the glue causes the adhesive to break down, and become useless. The frame is left for a day before the next stage, which is the gesso. Sometimes strips of fine silk are put over the mitres, this interlagio helps to reduce the inevitable cracking that occurs at the mitres, as the wood shrinks, expands, and moves during variations in the surrounding atmosphere.
Tuesday
painting, gesso, and gilding
Here are a few frames being worked on at the moment. The frame being painted with gesso in the photo above is made from two mouldings, the inner part has been cut down on the table saw, it is then joined to the outer box frame.
The three frames in the middle photo are being painted black, and will be sealed with an acrylic varnish, they will also have a white painted slip.
The top photo is another frame made from two mouldings, it is being water gilded.
Sunday
Water gilded frame
This frame was supplied by a customer, a water gilded frame on dark grey bole, with burnished inner and outer edge and matt middle scoop. I had to cut the grey mount with a gold slip to make the picture fit the frame. The profile is the same as the one I used on the sailor portrait painting in an earlier post.
Labels:
frame,
gilding,
water gilded






























